Sunday, March 6, 2011

And again.

Today was one of those good days.

On Thursday, I had fun with all the new problems, and in particular set my eye on one V8: it had fun, overhanging moves on round pinches going up the Whale Belly. I figured out the sequence relatively quickly, except for the end: the only plausible thing I could see was an awkward dyno from not-so-great holds up, out, and to the left. At least it finished on a good hold.

While I was nearly able to stick it, in the end it eluded me, and so I figured I would come back today and send it.

I showed up, and felt a little tired; I knew all the moves, but they didn't quite seem as steady as I wanted them, and so I worried a little that it might not go as planned. To compound this, Chris suggested an alternate way to finish it that, when I got up there to try it, seemed quite awkward. After a few tries of that I decide to go back to attempting the dyno and... it stuck. Solidly.

So I have another V8 under my belt, and a fun one at that.

Afterwards, I joined Chris working on a V9 on the main wall; it starts with a low traverse across the main wall, up to a big sloper feature, crux move back into an iron cross on jugs, and then up and into a corner with a weird gaston and a shaky finish. That's how it went, because it did. I sent a V9 as well, today, and my first.

Was it soft? I don't know. Chris didn't seem to think so, though I helped him figure out some better beta, and he was tired today. But as I said last post, I just have to accept that I am that strong now.

Onward and upward.

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